C.L. Stambush

Go. Do. Be.

Riding India Solo: A Journey of Fear, Freedom, and Self-Discovery.

In Untethered: A Woman’s Search for Self on the Edge of India – A Travel Memoir, I rode nearly 7,000 miles alone on a Royal Enfield Bullet named Kali. With no GPS or experience, I crossed a country—and found myself. These images capture moments from that wild, transformative road.

C.L. Stambush sitting on a Royal Enfield Bullet the bike she rode solo around the edge of India
The first time I rode Kali. My neighbor and friend advised me to “practice braking.”
Street vendor selling sweets and water.
This young Indian is making fresh potato chips!
I came across herdsmen shearing sheep when I got lost in the Rann of Katch.
One of India’s Holy Men, a sadhu. They survive through the generosity of others.
Mountain road traffic jam.
This sweet family befriended me. I spent several days with them. Ahana, Rushil, Honey and Angel.
Streets of Nellor.
The Taj Mahal
The Taj Mahal
Me fine-tuning Kali.
Nanna, master Bullet wallah who taught me to repair Kali.
C.L. Stambush working on her Royal Enfield Bullet motorcycle that she rode solo around India.
Me learning the art of motorcycle maintenance.
Nanna’s mechanics. So patient in helping me learn motorcycle maintenance.
One of Nanna’s mechanics. He didn’t like seeing a woman get greasy.
This sweet note was left on Kali one day by strangers.
overview of sprawling Old Delhi, India
Old Delhi where I bought my Royal Enfield Bullet motorcycle. The streets are so narrow and congested, I was afraid to ride her home.
Pushkar is the site of the famous Camel Fair.
Me a few days before leaving on my solo journey. I cut all my hair off – something valued on women – and immediately became invisible to men.
C.L. Stambush and Royal Enfield Bullet motorcycle
Day one of my nearly 7,000-mile, 5-month journey by motorcycle on the edge of India.
Me in the Thar.
Getting a facial after many days on dirty roads.
Me and some kids posing on a “fake” motorcycle.
Me getting a “look” from a flower vendor. I was supposed to buy some to appease the gods and ensure a safe journey.
rural temple in India
India’s architecture is stunning and ancient.
Goddess Kali not looking so ferocious.
Map of journey. I started in New Delhi and headed west.
I’m lost in the desert.
Many of the roads I was on looked like this.
India’s roads were narrow and dangerous. This was a common site. I must have passed many every day.
A boy dressed as the Hindu God Hanuman and his drummer.
This old palace is a hotel but it looks like a haunted house. I spent a scary night here.
The Hijras from Chapter 20. They look friendly now that their leader stomped off down the street.
My Indian driver’s license..
Kali decorated for Saraswati Puja.
A common sign on government buildings.
The Red Fort in New Delhi, India
New Delhi’s Red Fort, near my home in Nizamuddin.
Pushkar is the site of the famous Camel Fair.
Mr. Bakshi, the bus driver who kept my camera bag safe when it fell of my motorcycle on the road.
Every mirror is an opportunity to primp.
The men who hoisted Kali out of the boat and up the bank for me.
A motorcycle, a woman, and 15 more passengers in this boat were ferried across the Ganges River. I might been able to dog paddle, but Kali would have sunk if we’d tipped.
Shopping for a rakki for Raksha Bandhan – Brother Day.
photos take while C.L. Stambush rode solo around the edge of India
A tree grows in Agra.

Read the story behind the images.

Untethered: A Woman’s Search for Self on the Edge of India – A Travel Memoir

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Book cover of Untethered: A Woman’s Search for Self on the Edge of India by C.L. Stambush, showing a woman on a motorcycle symbolizing her solo journey across India.